Strolling Amok

Pops goes on tour.

The Last Full Measure of Devotion

Memorial Day

It’s not about patriotism, flag waving, or bragging that our causes were just. It’s not about a long holiday from work to grill and drink beer and celebrate our freedom to feast. In the press of more “modern” times, as we slowly shift from coming to the aid of conquered peoples to opposing hostile ideologies, protecting our access to foreign natural resources, aiding corporate interests, dealing with the blowback of covert missions, and projecting power, it is becoming increasingly difficult to identify those sparse periods of peace that we incessantly claim to be fighting for. There can be no doubt that evil people engineer suffering and misery on a massive scale, to their own ends. There can be no doubt that those who are capable have the moral obligation to protect those who cannot protect themselves, in order to lessen injustice and suffering.

But let us not forget that more is at risk in our political and national decisions than troop casualties. “It’s a hell of a thing to take away all that a man has, or ever will have,” at least on this side of the plane of existence. And it’s a hell of a thing to do so merely from the desire to teach others a lesson, to exact revenge, to protect profits, or from the desire to sound like a more patriotic American than the next guy, when it isn’t our own necks that pass over the chopping block. It is easy to send others to fight when we ourselves appear to be entirely out of harm’s way. Yet, our loss is more than a soldier, a fact which is painfully obvious even to children, but which we adults learn to put out of our minds, so that the next call to sacrifice can come a little easier. It should not become easy, and the rallying cry should seldom be heard in what used to be called a peace-loving nation.

The next time you hear one of our elected representatives evoke an indignant patriotic fervor, demanding support for yet another military incursion, police action, or vague, unspecified activity, ask yourself whether it is his own son he will so eagerly send to armed combat, or yours. Is it to benefit and protect those in desperate straits, or more to oppose and punish those whom we have been encouraged to hate? The “warrior mentality” may be needed by those in the field to survive, but turned loose outside of it, it brings only “wars and rumors of wars”. Armed combat becomes the new norm. Warfare is the only political activity that has been largely (but not completely) free of that worn mantra, “It’s for our children.” As the picture at the top of this post reveals, there’s a sound reason for that. This is the official day to honor those who gave more than their only lives in service to our nation and our people. Let us do so, remember them, and carefully hesitate to throw more loss their way without thoughtful deliberation, for the casualty list will always be longer than the final tally suggests.

Grand Canyon Pioneer Cemetery

The entrance to Pioneer Park, erected by the American Legion.

The entrance to Pioneer Park, erected by the John Ivens of the American Legion. and presented in 1928.

[Caution: If you are on a limited cellular data plan, you may want to avoid clicking on “more” to continue reading this post – it’s loaded with medium-resolution photos.]

Easily accessed but seldom discovered, the Pioneer Cemetery in the Grand Canyon National Park is the final resting place for several hundred people – and counting. The first burial took place in 1919, and if a cemetery can be popular, this one is increasingly so. The entry qualification is that you have to have lived at the Canyon for at least three years, and the only way to do that these days is to be employed there. Family members of those already in residence also qualify, as do those who have made a “significant contribution” to the Canyon in some way. At the current rate of four burials per year, it won’t be all that long before current capacity will be reached, and then some difficult decisions made.

On-site, there’s an aura of significance and history on these grounds. What would be a melancholy pursuit in any other burial place is here an absorbing exploration into lives lived, personal identification, and anonymity. The gravestones range from none, to bare unmarked stone, to faded wood, to purposeful simplicity, to charming, and to overworked reflections of our current worship of high tech. The bulk of burials seem to be “recent”, meaning newer than the turn of Read more…

The Canyon Grand

Duck on a Rock. Toward the left is a fat boulder, the top of which has eroded to form a part resembling a duck's bill. It's kind of like cloudgazing, but with a a lot slower change.

Duck on a Rock. Toward the left is a fat boulder, the top of which has eroded to form a part resembling a duck’s bill. It’s kind of like cloudgazing, but with a a lot slower change.

Although I’m now just outside teeny-tiny Mormon Lake Village, AZ, I wanted to show you my last full day in Tusayan. This post represents the first part of it. Possibly due to controlled burning in the park, there was a haze in the air. And I’m told that sunrise and sunset are when the colors really jump out. These are mid-day snaps, with haze. But that’s okay, because there’s just nothing that can capture the sense of space and scale of even this one little part of the Grand Canyon anyway.

You're looking about a mile down here. This is one of the few places on earth where the time it takes to get to the bottom on foot can be just as quickly accomplished as by automobile, simply by using the principle of terminal velocity.

You’re looking about a mile down here. This is one of the few places on earth where the time it takes to get to the bottom on foot can be just as quickly accomplished as by automobile, simply by using the principle of terminal velocity.

These shots are from two roadside stops along the highway that goes along the South Rim. I found it to be an amazing thing to simply pull over, get out, walk a hundred feet, and be at a ledge. Here, there are no railings, no warning signs, and no cautionary tape on the ground. I’ve heard the assertion that Read more…

An Unusual Day

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Yup, that’s sleet on the truck bed in the photo above. It looks like it’s going to top out at about 50 degrees today, which will make for a pleasant afternoon inside the Mighty Defiant because of the ceramic propane heater in here. I’ll likely have to keep it idling overnight, since the prediction is for a 23-degree low, and once it approaches 30, the “temperate weather only” limitation mentioned in the Gulf Stream manual starts kicking in. But don’t worry, I’ve got plenty of propane because when one of my two 20# heater tanks ran out last night, I filled it up today at the infamous Grand Canyon Village RV Park in town today for $24 and change, which is about twice the cost of anywhere else. Unfortunately, around here, there is no anywhere else for propane refills, and I do not adore the thought of running out of heat when it’s most needed. That’s just me. I asked at the visitor center in the Grand Canyon.

Notice those orange cones? A crew of fit-looking people came by in two pickups and an ATV to drop them off. Seems there’s going to be a 12-mile marathon tomorrow morning, and those mark the path the runners should take. And no, I’m not going to move them. They are taking the same way around that

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Correction, and a Few Tidbits

A really blue Bluejay with a tall black crest? The critters here are all pretty casual around humans.

A really blue Bluejay with a tall black crest? The critters here are all pretty casual around humans.

The correction is that the sole RV Park in Tusayan may restrict dump station water usage to 10 gallons of potable freshwater – and that’s to camp residents. My advice is, if you’re going to boondock in the Tusayan area, use your pass to enter the Grand Canyon National Park and head for Mather Campground for their free dump station. Their coin-op laundry has a money changer and what looked to be 20 machines at $1.75 a pop. There are coin-op showers at $2 for 8 minutes, and the boon here is that they are inside the heated laundry building – a significant benefit at the moment. Temps will be in the 50s for the next few days and nightly lows in the 20s. In fact, two nights from now, the low is forecast to be 23 degrees, which combined with a 20 MPH wind should make things interesting.

I’ve been fortunate in that actual temps outside the Defiant have been 4-8 degrees warmer than forecast each night so far. I suspect that the time spent below freezing won’t phase the trailer’s plumbing, especially since I’ll need to keep the propane heater percolating all night in order to keep my breathing air above my tolerance of 45. Outside though, the freshwater fill hose in the truck bed does tend to freeze up and clog quickly in near-freezing air. I don’t expect to need to fill the camper’s tank before this cold wave passes, but I don’t want the expanding water to damage anything, either. That would put the Tankmin out of service. The forecast for tonight is 30 (which is safe), so as a test, I’ve thrown the camper’s remote thermometer sender on top of the hose under the tonneau, so I’ll be able to compare true outside temp with that near the hose. If it looks like 23 may be a threat, I’ll have to disconnect the hose at the Tankmin and empty it. I’d like to avoid that if possible, since that involves unloading much of the truck bed to get the needed access. The exposed waste pipes and valves under the RV are a concern too, but I’m hoping the the large diameter piping will slow down freezing and discourage expansion.

This wide load coming into the Park required a couple of highway patrol cars to block intersections and keep the roadway clear.

This wide load coming into the Park required a couple of highway patrol cars to block intersections and keep the roadway clear.

On the good side of things, I found two very helpful apps for my iPhone, and I assume that they are also available for the Android platform. One is

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No Electrons For YOU!

The only light I'm getting through the clouds is an occasional lightning strike.

The only light I’m getting through the clouds is an occasional lightning strike.

Extended overcast when camping is only significant if you’re dependent on solar power to do your work or run your toys. That’s me. It’s been partly cloudy for days now and, combined with the surrounding trees, sun exposure has been limited. Today and tomorrow are to be overcast and rain, and as of high noon, I’m reading a miserable 13.0-13.1 volts on both battery sets. As a charging voltage, that’s better than nothing, but not much. So using the desktop computer is out, if I want that pack to last. But that’s okay since I can, with limitations, post using my old iPad.

When you live mobile, weather predictions are the one thing that you both hold close and don’t trust. You can go to bed after checking tomorrow’s forecast, and get up seven hours later to find that your day’s plans need adjusting. Depending on the nature of your rig, poor weather can affect more than your planned activity outside or your power usage inside. If you’re boondocking in certain terrain, a half-inch of rain can strand you for a day or two after it’s over. That bodes ill if you dislike keeping tabs on freshwater and waste levels. It also promises issues if your happy, carefree life does not include anticipating med levels, clean laundry, or food supplies.

Sudden high wind can remove drying laundry, awnings, tire covers or solar panels. Any forewarning can be pretty handy out West – I’m not above lowering and tying down the panels, then hitching up and heading the trailer into the oncoming wind if it promises to reach highway speeds. It’s only unfortunate that the worst winds seem to register in forecasts only up to an hour before they hit locally, which makes for some intense scrambling. Heading into the wind doesn’t mean that the Defiant won’t act like a yacht in choppy water, but it does avoid the unsettling howling and heavy lurches that blustering sidewinds cause. High winds in the Great Southwest are impressive and alarmingly so at times, but at this point, I have yet to see them actually take a trailer over.

Still, all this is easier to deal with than the violent thunderstorms and minibursts that occasionally occur from Nebraska to Illinois. On the road, you look for exits and parking lots big enough to wheel into the wind. I once pulled into the empty front lot of a rural service business and aimed into the wind. That confused the owner, who came out to see what this oddball was doing in his lot. He was gracious, though. Five minutes later, we both knew it was well worth it. It hit hard, then ended after a few impressive minutes, and I could get back onto the Interstate. Encamped in a commercial RV park, about all you can do is know where the strongest building is, leave a radio on, and keep one eye on the sky. The trailer has to fend for itself. Midwest storms can and do knock travel trailers, motorhomes and big-rig trailers over.

Now, this local weather in Tusayan is not violent at all. I am keeping a casual eye out as to where lightning strikes are in relation to wind direction, but my main interest is in scheduling upcoming events in relation to weather and the resulting trail conditions. I’d normally just load up the Tankmin with waste almost a week from now, and put dirty laundry in the truck cab along with a grocery list. One multi-stop errand. Very efficient. Very Germanic.

But I became aware of something called the Overland Expo south of Flagstaff which begins on the 15th. It’s kind of a cross between legit people who like to trek across very remote and rugged areas in cross-continental trips that take months to years, and posers who like toys and have more money than they know what to do with. The displays onsite are targeted accordingly. I hope to attend a day or two merely to see displays of certain types of equipment that would not be accessible to me otherwise. With some things, the Internet displays only one-sided propaganda, and the only way to seriously research it is to see it in person, ask questions, handle it, and maybe rub up against it – unless that risks expulsion from the grounds, of course. They will have a dry camping area on site, but that means jabbering people late and night, and barking mutts. Being unfamiliar with the Mormon Lake area, I don’t know the suitability of the several approved forest roads to the Defiant’s limitations, nor how crowded they will be (this is a very well-attended event).

So, as this week wears on, I will be mentally stirring the mix of weather, when servicing and errands will be required, and how they may be timed with a departure from Tusayan in order to assure me (maybe) with a workable camping spot near Mormon Lake Lodge. That assumes that weather at that time will allow lumbering down dirt trails there. I suspect that weather will not affect the event itself much at all. Part of the excitement is that it is conceivable that I can then stay in that area long enough to reach my departure date for the long trek back to Illinois. And, part of the excitement is that I may be able to time my departure here in Tusayan to take the trailer directly to the local dump station instead of using the Tankmin as an intermediary carrier. I prefer to refer to that as a “Hot Dump”, and it’s a rarity. It’s also necessary to do now and then, since repeatedly using a macerater to drain a black tank is slow enough to encourage eventual buildup and clogs. The waste system needs that “Ba-WHOOSH” that only 35 gallons of waste charging down a 3″ hose can produce. We’ll see how it all works out – I’m not sure I can handle that much excitement!

Tourist Trap Tusayan?

I was astounded to find these in the sandwich shop - candy cigarettes! "Makes you look cool! No lighter required! Hey dad, can I bum a smoke?" And the Maschismo brand says, "Makes you look manly!" On the right, Machismo also offers "Manly Mints".  At $2.99 per 12-pack, that puts these on a cost par with the real thing! I'd assumed these died out in the 1960s.

I was astounded to find these in the sandwich shop – candy cigarettes! “Makes you look cool! No lighter required! Hey dad, can I bum a smoke?” And the Maschismo brand says, “Makes you look manly!” On the right, Machismo also offers “Manly Mints”. At $2.99 per 12-pack, that puts these on a cost par with the real thing! I’d assumed these died out in the 1960s, but though beaten down, I guess Politically Incorrect never dies.

You know, I’ve only been on the road since 2012 and, now that I’ve had to repeat stops, it’s time to point out that not each place I camp in is nirvana on earth. Tusayan, Arizona is one of my favorite places to be. It has its strengths and it has its weaknesses, but they are unusual in that each is toward the end of the scale when compared to many places. Whether the plusses outweigh the minuses is up to how you roll.

Part of the strip that is Tusayan.

Part of the strip that is Tusayan.

Tusayan is one four-lane quarter-mile commercial strip which is a mile or so south of the Grand Canyon National Park entrance on this side. The town caters to tourists who drive and fly in to visit the Grand Canyon’s south rim, and tours are available by

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Tusayan Trail Ride

Well no, actually, this is Wickenburg, the place I left. I just put this here as a point of reference.

Well no, actually, this is Wickenburg, the place I left. I just put this here as a point of reference.

Busy day, yesterday. I figured I’d do a quick tour around a sizable loop of trails approved for car travel and camping. It turned out to be an 11-mile tour over a mix of soft dirt and rocks, and I couldn’t help but check out several branches heading this way and that. Over that distance, I found 3 or 4 super-secluded, pretty little sites. One is quite close, but does not allow the peculiar E-W aiming that the Defiant needs, nor the sun exposure either. The other sites require true high-clearance vehicles to access and, if it rains at all, four-wheel-drive. Off the main loop, some ruts are so deep that even the Mighty Furd would high-center. For a pop-up truck camper or traditional high-clearance van, the few compact sites scattered about would be very nice places to be. Slow trip to town, though!

Biking down the trail and looking off to the side. Much pleasantry.

Biking down the trail and looking off to the side. Much pleasantry.

I ultimately returned to camp, moved the Defiant over a width to get the solar panels into the sun, and then hung them up to start churning electrons. Nearby tall pines do not the best solar situation make, but since the system is configured fairly aggressively now, it works out fine. The Verizon data signal is good enough that kicking the Wilson amp into gear causes intermittent dropped connections.

There are elk tracks aplenty on the trail here, but I  Read more…

Tusayan!

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The scenics between Congress and Kirkland were amazing, but there’s no place to not pay attention to the road, let alone stop for a photo. So, you get I-40 heading toward Williams instead.

I arrived in the Prescott National Forest a few miles north of Paulden, Arizona today. It was supposed to be yesterday, but my departure was held up by the discovery that the 2-year-old connector hoses running from the dual 30# propane tanks to the pressure regulator on the front of the Defiant were leaking. I was going to take a date-expired tank in to a welding shop in Wickenburg that also does propane refills. They swap them for newer ones for $9.50. Opening up the remaining tank on the trailer showed it to be empty, which it definitely should not have been. Both rubber hoses showed deep cracks, so that was that. It took me long enough to find an accessible dump station, trade in the propane tank for a 5-year newer one and chase down two hoses, that it would have been a bugger to get to Paulden so late in the day.

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The Defiant Biosphere heads into the forest in Tusayan.

 

So I arrived in the camping area north of Prescott about 1 PM today. I found that the spot I was hoping for was Read more…

The Wickenburg Massacre

The 1937 stone structure commemorating the ambush of the Ehrenburg-Wickenburg Stage in 1871.

The 1937 stone structure commemorating the ambush of the Ehrenburg-Wickenburg Stage in 1871.

I was surprised to find this plaque at the end of an outing in the Mighty Furd, one that led me down some Jeep trails narrow enough to scrape its paint with thorns as it lumbered onward through open range. I had that weird sensation of history as I picked my path, and was considering how difficult it would be to prod a loaded wagon from one tiny encampment to another in the West’s early days. Winding up and down from hill to eroded wash mile after mile, would be quite the adventure. Then my surprise at finding this memorial after returning to pavement made me realize that the threats to travel were not limited to terrain at that time.

The plaque reads: "Wickenburg Massacre - In this vicinity Nov, 5, 1871, Wickenburg-Ehrensburg Stage ambushed by Apache Mohave Indians. John Lanz - Fred W. Loring - P.M.Hamel - W.G.Salmon - Frederick Shoholm and C.S. Adams were murdered. Mollie Sheppard died of wounds. Arizona Highway Department 1937."

The plaque reads: “Wickenburg Massacre – In this vicinity Nov, 5, 1871, Wickenburg-Ehrensburg Stage ambushed by Apache Mohave Indians. John Lanz – Fred W. Loring – P.M.Hamel – W.G.Salmon – Frederick Shoholm and C.S. Adams were murdered. Mollie Sheppard died of wounds. Arizona Highway Department 1937.”

Doing some research, I found that this tragedy was more complex and was backgrounded with yet more tragedy than I cared to consider. This particular attack received national attention because a young

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